Nahuel Huapi National Park

As soon as we read about the five day trek through Nahuel Huapi National Park, we decided that we shouldn't miss it. The stunning park is located in the lakes district in Argentine Patagonia and the trek itself runs along a Refugio system which allows you to carry only your day clothing, water, and snacks--but we are cheap and tough and carried our tent plus 5 full days of food, including 6 types of chocolate. I was presented with lots of options at the grocery store, so Will suggested that we try them all. I have eaten one giant bar per day entirely by myself for the past 4 days... Only two to go and then I will know which is my favorite chocolate. I lack a control for the experiment, but it is otherwise scientific. If you have any doubts as to the decision I will make two days from now, I am willing to conduct an empirical study, but I will need outside funding to do so as it is not very affordable to eat $5 of chocolate per day (after all, that is 10% of my maximum daily budget!). I haven't even gotten to try the locally made chocolates yet! Bariloche is famous for its chocolate boutiques, amongst other things.



The Monkey Puzzle Tree

Hopping the bright red and yellow local bus, we rode 15 minutes outside of town until the driver deposited us on a gravel driveway and pointed for us to follow the road to the trailhead. Two kilometers and five unsuccessful hitch hiking attempts later we entered the coolness of the forest and began our trek. Stopping alongside Lago Gutierrez, we ate cheese, bread, and local salami before scaling the steeper mountain toward the refuge. An hour later, we both felt ill, but we had not been too active lately and figured that we were just tired.... Arriving at a rushing mountain stream, I ate the rest of the salami log with more cheese while watching a train of mules trudge down the mountain, led by a group of trail workers. Another hour later, I realized that my burps tasted like salami--you should never be able to taste your food once you've already eaten it....



I accidentally shot this with my leg. Just as I was getting ready to delete it, Will said, "This is exactly how I remember the Refugio!"

We both took Pepto-Bismal and hoped for the best. I got better. Will got worse. Downright bad. Fortunately there was only 1 kilometer left by the time his fever struck and his stomach evacuated its contents. Arriving at Frey Refugio two hours late, I gave Will his down jacket, set up the tent, and scurried about to get dinner ready while Will rested in the tent. Needless to say, the food poisoning took over, so we returned to town two days later with a dose of ciprofloxacn coursing through Will's veins. Despite the brevity of our trip, the trek was stunning and incredibly diverse. I would do it all over again any day!

Will's contribution:
I was really sick. Frances absolutely took care of me as lay feverishly in the tent clutching my stomach or scurrying to the bathroom -- I mean, she brought me a kitten? This is why you travel with someone. She even carried my pack for the last few miles of the hike out! Let us compare: me lying in ditch with me lying in bed with kitten. My travels without Frances to my with my travels with Frances. Amazing.


Will and Emilio, the kitten, read together in the tent.


One of the refuges on the way up.